La belle France?

We are lucky enough to be travelling for two weeks on holiday, mainly in the south of France, so a rather different flavour to my post this week…. Firstly, and apologies to all who are unable to travel in school term time, how great is it to be able to do so! Eurotunnel was a breeze and the autoroutes were pretty empty too. Two stop-offs on the way down – the first in Reims – great cathedral, strange vibe in town, disappointing hotel – the second in St Antoine l’Abbaye, one of the villages named in the Guardian recently amongst the top 20 prettiest villages in France, with a spectacular drive out through the Drôme. It was, however, very difficult to find somewhere to eat in the evening. I know I shouldn’t be, but I am still constantly surprised how difficult it can be to find a restaurant/café/bistro that will serve you – in a country that prides itself as the gastronomic centre of the world. I would add that the quality of meals is also very variable – I have eaten much better food regularly in Spain, Italy, Greece, cheaper and served with a smile and a graciousness that has to be earned in la belle France.

Market stall in Aix en Provence

There is another side to this coin, however. What they do have in abundance here in the south are markets selling local produce, les marchés paysans or du terroir. It has been a delight meandering through streets vibrant with colours and odours – saucissons secs, cheeses, fruit, veg and fish etc. Very few bargains to be found, but some of the best strawberries and tomatoes I have tasted in a long time – we also found some delicious swordfish, a brique de brebis (ewe’s cheese that was fresh as….) and some local honey – Miel de Garrigues, infused with aromas of rosemary and thyme…. Morning purchases lead to happy lunchtime and evening eating!

Eating: Amongst other things….Fresh salads, such as sheep’s cheese, walnuts and honey (the writer had this in her mind as a must), fresh fish sautéd in oil/butter and garlic, olives and ratatouille…and too much warm baguette!

Drinking: Too much as usual, but enjoying plenty of local rosé. This one was very dry and went down a treat with the ‘planche de tapas’ we ordered, which included chorizo cookies, a tuna and cream cheese dip, marinaded red peppers, a courgette and goat’s cheese cake and a cumin and chick pea tart – apologies for the rather poor quality photo…

Listening to: An audiobook, for the first time in a long time – The Hoarder, by Jess Kidd. We’re about half way through and loving it!

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